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Introduction |
Building your own all weather riding arena/gallop need not be as daunting as it may appear, provided that it is planned and costed properly.
You may contact us for further advice and information, but if you feel the project is beyond your capability please contact a specialist contractor. |
Getting it right at the beginning will save on costly corrections later!
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Before commencing there are a few issues to address: |
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Planning permission - invariably you will need this, so check it out early in your planning stage
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Equipment hire - if you do not have access to plant and machinery you will need to hire them, so get estimates.
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Information - gather as much information about membranes, surfaces etc as possible, together with samples. Ask questions of suppliers, look at other arenas, and try riding if possible on different types of surface, to see which suits your needs best.
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Situation - look carefully when choosing your site. For example, if it is at the bottom of a slope you would need
to construct a cut off drain to intercept and divert excess surface water away from the arena (see diagram).
Is there a ditch or stream into which you could run your drains? If not you may need to excavate a soakaway drain
unless you are on good free draining ground.
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Screening -
consideration should be given to screening of the site;
a) by using existing hedges,
or
b) raising the kick boards,
as some surfaces, such as silica sand, can be wind blown.
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A good arena is an investment adding value to your property so it's worth installing the best you can afford. |
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Guide to Construction |
1 Once you have chosen your site peg, out the area, usually 20 x 40 metres, and proceed with excavation. This would normally be to dig down approx 30cm (12") with a fall to assist drainage, and then excavate the herringbone or similar drainage system (see plan).
The drains should be at approximately 5m centres, with the trench 30cm (12") wide x 45cm (18") deep, constructed to give fall.
At this stage it is recommended to either line the trenches with
membrane before installing the preferred type of drains, or cover the area with a Geo-Tex base membrane, overlapping the joints by 30-45 cm (12"-18" - here no stitching is required) to stabilise the
sub-base and prevent the hardcore drainage layer being lost into the subsoil. |
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2 On top of the Geo-Tex base membrane add 15cm (6") of clean
angular stone of about 50 - 100mm in size, and then roll or vibrate to compact. |
3 Cover this area with Geo-Tex separator membrane, usually a non-woven needle punched material, which will form an essential
barrier between the hardcore layer and the riding surface to prevent costly intermixing (see membrane page), leaving sufficient on the sides to curl up the posts etc. This
MUST be secured on the overlaps by sticking, stitching or heat sealing etc., and fastened to the kickboards/fence posts by trapping the membrane between timber battens (see diagram) to prevent sideways migration.
Alternatively, if constructing on top of the ground, remove grass, weeds and tree stumps etc, build up the perimeter with blocks or sleepers, and proceed as described previously (see diagram). |
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Now you can install your riding surface. Start tipping at the gate
and push the surface in front of you until all the area is covered,
avoid driving on the membrane as much as possible. Once covered,
level off the surface, lightly roll, and allow to settle. Regular
maintenance will be required from now on i.e. removal of droppings,
rake and harrow the surface to avoid rutting, and maintain the
recommended depth of surface or damage to the separator membrane may
occur. Also, it is advisable to move jumps around so as to avoid
using the same place continuously. |
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[click on the diagram for a larger view] |
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[click on the diagram for a larger view] |
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PLEASE NOTE |
Storage and Installation of Membranes
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UV light (solar radiation) -
Membranes should be kept in their protective wrapping until ready
for use. After laying they should be covered as soon as possible to avoid UV damage.
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Remove all sharp/protruding objects prior to laying.
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When joining rolls end to end, overlap and stitch together.
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Roll out the membrane to follow the contours of the
land, keeping as taut
as possible, but not stretched to span over hollows; these should
be filled
first.
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These notes are offered in good faith and since the
conditions of use of any materials offered are beyond our control they are
sold without guarantee. Purchasers accept responsibility that the
products and conditions are satisfactory for their intended use.
(This does not affect your statutory rights.) |
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updated 16 August 2007 |
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